2006 CHINA TRIP - DAILY DIARY

4-21-06 - The Western Hills of Kunming and Green Lake Park

Dianne Skawski:
After two energizing days in the schools, last night our young charges went home with Chinese families. For the chaperones on the trip it was an opportunity to have a relaxing dinner with our Chinese counterparts and to continue discussing the mutual goals of our program. We were also joined by Mr. Bi and Mr. Tian’s sons, who were enthusiastic participants at dinner. Seeing these young boys enjoying a special meal reminded us how important is it for us to promote dialogue between our children.

Following dinner we adjourned to Green Lake Park for some night tea. We enjoyed more discussions about our work, Bill Gates (!), and the local customs, music and history as we sipped an excellent aged Pu’er tea. This morning we welcomed back our own students, whose energy and stories certainly validate the work we’ve put into the Asian American Cultural Exchange. As for the rest of the day, we’ll let Jordan from Brattleboro fill you in…..

Jordan Peeples:
Today was the first day on the trip that I woke up in a home, rather than a hotel. The morning routine for the Chinese family I stayed with, the Chens, was surprisingly similar to my own morning routine. We woke up to the radio, brushed our teeth, and got dressed, but instead of having cereal we had delicious rice noodles which are a traditional (but less common than steamed bread) Chinese breakfast.

Their home was probably more “western” style than my own, with its clean wooden floors, TV and stereo system, and modern kitchen. After breakfast, Jin Jie, my host student, accompanied me in the back seat of his mother’s American car (which was made in China) as she drove us through the modern streets of North Kunming to the Lotus Hotel in West Kunming. At the hotel Jin Jie met his friend (Gus’s host student) and they told us they wanted to stay with us so they could skip their first class. It finally came time for Jin Jie to leave so I said goodbye and thanked him and his mother for their gracious hospitality especially since they had given me far beyond what I could comfortably accept and had offered even much more than what I had expected (for example, Jin Jie told me “If there is anything you like in my house, anything at all, I would like you to have it.”)

My last hours with Jin Jie taught me that despite our significant differences (schooling, work ethic, and expectations) Chinese and American teenagers are, at the core, the same; they struggle to meet the expectations set by society and their parents, they fantasize about skipping school, and when it comes down to it, there is nothing they would rather do than spend the day with their close friends.

After the Chinese students’ departure we (the AACE group) left for the Western Hills, a meeting place for two of China’s most influential and traditional religions: Buddhism, and Taoism. An ancient and steep staircase winds up the side of a small mountain; with extraordinary shrines to the gods of these two religions housed in temples with precisely curved traditional roofs, to meet a modern cable car at the top of the mountain. I found the Western Hills very beautiful with its varied landscape (even tunnels), stunning views of Kunming, and especially the colorful and intricately carved gods which were similar to Hindu gods with their imposing (almost demonic to the Western Christian influenced mind) attributes and expressions. To me the representations of the gods suggested that they should be respected, obeyed, and feared. I had no knowledge about these religions but my visit to these shrines sparked an interest in them that I am eager to satisfy.

The stops along the path were not limited to shrines; they included a temple that was devoted to famous and/ or prominent visitors to the hills rather than to gods. The bottom and top of the path was lined with vendors. These features, as well as the cable car, to me, represent the different worlds of China. The site is obviously traditional but it doesn’t appear to be in use. The vendors and pay bathroom indicate that it is used not only for culture but also for business. It seems that it is a profitable relic of old China, a museum, but it also shows me that the Chinese people value their traditional culture and are willing and eager to protect it. China isn’t going to stand by and watch high rise buildings completely take over its traditional buildings. It will promote both growth and preservation.

The next items on our agenda after the Hills and lunch were to take care of money exchanging and visit Green Lake Park. For the first time since my arrival I was too full to eat since my host family filled me up with enormous servings of delicious foods; they told me that China’s past has had widespread starvation so the way of welcoming a guest is to feed them and celebrate this prosperous day and age.

I thought the lake was going to be a boring lake that was only talked so highly of by the Kunming citizens because they are surrounded by a crowded pavement and cement governed city. I was happily proved wrong when my group of Tiffany , Asya, and I walked through the pleasant and peaceful park stopping to listen or gaze at street musicians played enrapturing traditional music, performances of comedic plays, exotic statues and flower beds (some with stone animals), and other interesting people.

Jin Jie had told me the park was famous for its sea gulls which puzzled me because I had not seen any in the park (I later spotted one) but I was soon to find out why. The lake was always there, but in the past was less beautiful; it’s water level would fluctuate and sometimes it would become totally dry, but modern technology solved this problem with manmade water transportation systems feeding water to the lake from nearby rivers. Some seagulls began to notice the park and in turn a retired revolutionary, Mr. Wu, noticed the seagulls. Despite having attended university Mr. Wu was a struggling peasant in 1985. The retired Mr. Wu was so fascinated by the seagulls that he spent half of his life savings, around 300 Yuan on bread to feed to the birds. He drew more and more seagulls to the park, so many that it is now known for its seagulls (who are loved by the park goers) and there is a monument to his memory. I found out that the seagulls will arrive later in the year, most of them are still in Siberia one of their seasonal homes. Stories like this one are common in China. Everything has a story to it; whether it is mythological or factual it describes how or why something is the way it is. The Chinese find an interesting and usually virtuous story for everything. When children learn these they are not only enlightened on the various subject, but are taught a quick and candid lesson on how to behave (such as how Mr. Wu gave up half of his life savings to help the creatures that he loved). The story also perfectly exemplifies the Chinese love of tranquility and the satisfaction they attain through the simplest of activities. Throughout the park old people can be seen listening or participating in calming (and in some places energetic) songs, practicing Tai Chi, or contently flying a kite with an expression of focused enchantment on their faces. From my observations the Chinese are deeply spiritual and revere their past.

After Green Lake Park and dinner we went shopping. Mrs. Skawski took Gus, Tiffany, and me exploring through the alleys (don’t worry they weren’t dangerous, China is very different from America). Instead of shopping for shoes or American style clothing we shopped for native fruits such as the tamarind and a mysterious giant pink fruit that resembles a kiwi inside. The dark skinny streets were packed with local Kunming people and the language I heard was the local dialect instead of the common Mandarin. They were shopping for or selling small daily life goods such as utensils, bags, and school supplies. There were also vendors selling delicious LOOKING street food (it is a word in my personal dictionary.) Ah, street food, my favorite subject; Tiffany and I were stunned and excited by the amazing smelling exotic foods being prepared before us such as grilled dough filled with local fruits and topped with dessert syrup, steamed dumplings and doughnut like breads filled with unknown but tempting meats and vegetables, and kebabs holding who knows what kinds of meat. The street was like a party with its energetic bargaining, children playing throughout the crowd, and radios blaring music and speeches filled with energetic fervor. Mrs. Skawski, Gus, Tiffany, and I all agreed that rather than searching for familiar and comfortable surroundings (we have done much of this especially our American clothes shopping) exploring streets like these are the perfect way to experience a new culture. When we got back to the hotel we, along with some of our classmates sampled the fruits and agreed that the tamarind was very good but the gigantic Kiwi seemed a bit bland.

Today was another interesting day exploring China for me. I’d have to say that I most enjoyed the street exploration. It is much simpler than traveling out to the tourist sites, and puts you right in the culture. The tourist site are exciting to see and give a great sense of the history of China, but I find great satisfaction in immersing myself with these incredible people. It may be less clean or organized than the US, but it is a valuable and exciting experience.


Kunming aerial view from the top of the Western Hills


Mary Greene, program director, enjoys her view.


This sign could mean "careful don't fall", but Mr. Perrin's pod thinks it means, "no bad dancing".


A tall office building sits on the skyline above ancient Green Lakes Park.

Everyone was having such a wonderful time at their homestays, no one took photos!!

Western Hills:

Jordan, in the brown pants, and his group in front of a Taoist shrine in the Western Hills.


A group of students and chaperones look back from a Taoist Gate along the Western Hills path.


Lizzie pauses along the path carved through the Western Hills in Kunming. The path is carved into a high cliff wall, overlooking the city of Kunming as well as large lake.


This Yi vendor attempts to sell her wares to this Chinese tourist.


Gus and Nikki along the path near the summit of the Western Hills.


Girls from our AACE group are the subject of this Chinese tourist's photo op.


"coffee language" an AACE chaperone's dream come true


Perrin and Paxon share a hug at the top.


Chris Simpson's artist view: a small bell sits high above the cliffs on the Western Hills


Golden Horse Gate is one of the ancient entrances into the city of Kunming. Even today, only foot traffic can move though the gate-even bikes are not permitted.

 

 


last revised 4-21-06 lb